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Inexpensive vertical gardening — DIY inexpensive vertical bed

Ver­ti­cal gar­dening is in! Here in this blog, I can alre­a­dy show you 7 varia­ti­ons of self-built ver­ti­cal beds that were crea­ted very inex­pen­si­ve­ly! The inspi­ra­ti­on came from the online orga­nic bal­c­o­ny con­gres­ses.

Variant 1 vertical gardening DIY

Inspi­red by the Orga­nic Bal­c­o­ny Con­gress recei­ved the fol­lo­wing email at the begin­ning of April 2020. It is inten­ded to inspi­re peo­p­le who like to tin­ker to build an inex­pen­si­ve ver­ti­cal bed. The invest­ment cos­ts are 60 EUR!  

Dear Bir­git! But first I would like to thank you very much for this gre­at, varied and super-orga­ni­zed orga­nic bal­c­o­ny con­gress. My sis­ter recom­men­ded it to me. I have to say, the­re were so many dif­fe­rent and wide-ran­ging topics, I real­ly did­n’t expect that. But in view of the time off and working from home, you need a dis­trac­tion — and your con­gress and the sug­ges­ti­ons and impul­ses came just at the right time!

A Pro­pos Impul­se: My fri­end and I have read the con­tri­bu­ti­on from Jür­gen Her­ler for ver­ti­cal gar­dening with ver­ti­cal beds. Until now, we were only fami­li­ar with rai­sed beds, but not this bal­c­o­ny-sui­ta­ble ver­si­on. We have deci­ded: We are recrea­ting that.   Now my fri­end works in a car­pen­try shop and the­r­e­fo­re has some tools at hand that were neces­sa­ry for buil­ding (at the moment the wood cut­ting is stop­ped in the DIY stores…) I have atta­ched some pho­tos that you are wel­co­me to use on your web­site as inspi­ra­ti­on for others for an inex­pen­si­ve ver­ti­cal bed.  

So far, the body is in place.

Inexpensive vertical gardening - This is the first variant of the DIY inexpensive vertical bed. This promotes edible cities. We need more self-sufficiency on balconies and terraces.
Inexpensive vertical gardening - This is the first variant of the DIY inexpensive vertical bed. This promotes urban gardening.
Inexpensive vertical gardening. This includes automatic irrigation to minimize the amount of work involved in urban gardening.

To pro­tect it from the wea­ther, my fri­end fla­med it with a blowtorch (gas car­tridge).

The inexpensive vertical bed was flamed with a blowtorch to protect it from the weather.
This is what the vertical bed for vertical gardening looks like after flaming. DIY is so much possible when gardening.
This is what the vertical bed for vertical gardening looks like after flaming.

Here are a few more facts about the self-built vertical bed variant 1:

Dimen­si­ons: 75 cm wide 30 cm deep 80 cm high

Mate­ri­al:

- Boards (spruce, pine)

- Squared tim­ber

- HT pipe (was­te water pipe) 2/3 of the bed height

- Screws

Cos­ts: approx. 60 euros plus plants and soil  

The next step is to cover it with a film, pre­fer­a­b­ly wit­hout harmful sub­s­tances. Do you have any ide­as? What do you use? Best regards Corin­na      

I wro­te: Doris Kam­pas, also repre­sen­ted at the con­gress, sells rai­sed beds. She recom­mends larch becau­se of its dura­bi­li­ty or oak, which is very expen­si­ve. Spruce not at all, pine pos­si­bly. She tal­ked about lining rai­sed beds with bubble wrap, which is used at the bot­tom of the base of hou­ses. Made from pla­s­ti­ci­zer-free PE.

The vertical bed is covered with pond liner.
The vertical bed for vertical gardening is now lined with plasticizer-free pond liner.
Here you can see the irrigation pipes for easy watering in the vertical bed, so that less time is required.
This is what the vertical bed for vertical gardening looks like after you have built it yourself. Now you can plant.

Here are some pic­tures of the plan­ting. Real­ly cool. I’m real­ly hap­py about some­thing like this becau­se it’s so enri­ching. 60 EUR. Wow. That’s quite some­thing.

Now fill the vertical gardening bed with good peat-free organic vegetable soil and plant it.
This is how self-sufficiency works in the city, on balconies and terraces. Vertical gardening is an important building block for a regional, seasonal supply of fresh, healthy herbs, fruit and vegetables. Organic quality, of course.

Thank you Corin­na and Andi W.that I may publish your pho­tos.

Vertical gardening — variant 2 DIY

Ano­ther fine varia­ti­on on ver­ti­cal gar­dening from Sil­ke B., a long-time par­ti­ci­pant in the online Orga­nic Bal­c­o­ny Con­gres­ses. Her self-built ver­ti­cal bed is alre­a­dy pro­ving its worth the­re for the 3rd year.  

Dear Bir­git, I fol­lo­wed (almost) all the vide­os very clo­se­ly again this year! Thank you for your tire­less efforts in this important pro­ject, I admi­re your disci­pli­ne, per­se­ver­ance and pas­si­on, it gets more exten­si­ve and pro­fes­sio­nal every year. Of cour­se you can use the pic­tures as you see fit. I plan­ted a lot in the ver­ti­cal bed last year, had radis­hes, various let­tuces and bee flowers on the top shelf. Unfort­u­na­te­ly, I was abroad for the who­le of July, August and Sep­tem­ber; my son lovin­g­ly took care of the wate­ring and I did­n’t get to see much of it. Also, a cater­pil­lar that was pas­sio­na­te about eating the radishes/lettuce lea­ves then spread very wide­ly, so the har­ve­st was a com­ple­te fail­ure.…☹️

My son did­n’t pay much atten­ti­on to this, other­wi­se the pla­gue might have been con­tai­ned. The huge har­ve­st of toma­toes, cucum­bers, chil­lies, zuc­chi­nis, pump­kins, raspber­ries, straw­ber­ries and even egg­plants made up for this, pro­vi­ding my son with ple­nty of fresh vege­ta­bles. It’s a shame that I can’t send you an up-to-date pho­to of the ver­ti­cal bed; I only recent­ly sowed beet and radis­hes again, so unfort­u­na­te­ly not­hing is visi­ble yet. (This time I’m here, so I can inspect the lea­ves every day?). Sil­ke wis­hes you a bles­sed spring­time with your diver­se plan­tings on the bal­co­nies and lots of strength for your incre­asing­ly exten­si­ve tasks and cont­acts on the Inter­net and else­whe­re.  

This is how self-sufficiency works in the city, on balconies and terraces. Vertical gardening is an important building block for a regional, seasonal supply of fresh, healthy herbs, fruit and vegetables. Organic quality, of course. Here still self-built, so very inexpensive.

Thank you Sil­ke B.that I may publish your pho­to and your e‑mail.

Vertical gardening — variant 3 DIY

Here is the third variant of the self-built vertical bed for vertical gardening.

This is what this third vari­ant loo­ked like after com­ple­ti­on in 2017. Dr. Jür­gen Her­ler from Herbios.at spo­ke in an inter­view at the 1st Online Orga­nic Bal­c­o­ny Con­gress and inspi­red Edwin S. to get crea­ti­ve.

The indi­vi­du­al flo­ors are open and con­nec­ted at the back from top to bot­tom.

Edwin’s buil­ding ins­truc­tions: I don’t have any ins­truc­tions, apart from the infor­ma­ti­on that the boards are made of 18 mm thick, 1.20 m long can­vas from the DIY store. The back wall con­sists of a so-cal­led OSB board, also 18 mm thick (but could also be made from glued lami­na­ted tim­ber). I left the wood unt­rea­ted, just lined it with black con­s­truc­tion foil to make it last a litt­le lon­ger. A hand­saw and cord­less screw­dri­ver were all I nee­ded.

This vertical bed for vertical gardening in DIY impresses with its details. This is how self-sufficiency and urban gardening work in the city - on the balcony or terrace.

June 2018: I’ve sin­ce modi­fied this a bit from thin­king about how I could com­bi­ne it with making com­post. Birgit’s inter­view at the Kit­chen Gar­den Con­gress she spo­ke enthu­si­a­sti­cal­ly about the Worm box spo­ken. So I used pla­s­tic pipes to install two pipe com­pos­ters. I think you can see what I mean in the pic­tu­re. The holes in the pipes are to ensu­re the con­nec­tion to the soil in the box. The two drain taps are for drai­ning the liquid. Now I’m faced with the ques­ti­on of how to start the com­pos­ting pro­cess and with what. On the one hand, I’ve had good expe­ri­en­ces with my worm bin and could pos­si­bly trans­fer the prin­ci­ple here, but on the other hand I’m also inte­res­ted in making com­post with Effec­ti­ve Micro­or­ga­nisms (EM)

Edwin has pro­tec­ted the hori­zon­tal pipe against blocka­ges with a leaf guard for gut­ters and a so-cal­led gut­ter cater­pil­lar. Howe­ver, the dia­me­ter is also suf­fi­ci­ent for him to reach in by hand to clear it out if neces­sa­ry.

This vertical bed for vertical gardening on balconies and terraces was built by a green smoothie drinker. It provides him with a daily supply of valuable green plants.

That was 2019, ever­y­thing is gro­wing and thri­ving.

This is how self-sufficiency works in the city, on balconies and terraces. Vertical gardening is an important building block for a regional, seasonal supply of fresh, healthy herbs, fruit and vegetables. Organic quality, of course.

Here’s a look at his tie­red bed in March 2020, which Edwin has been sup­p­ly­ing with fresh greens over the win­ter. Cele­ry has beco­me his favo­ri­te green, a very good alter­na­ti­ve to pars­ley for him.

Thank you Edwin S.that I may publish your pho­tos and your comm­ents.        

Variant 4 vertical gardening DIY

Mate­ri­al cos­ts (unt­rea­ted Dou­glas fir decking/fence boards, screws, orga­nic lin­seed oil) were around EUR 90. I only inser­ted a film at the bot­tom (cut-up bag after the Plan­tura orga­nic soil, hope the­re are no harmful sub­s­tances in it) and deli­bera­te­ly left a gap at the front for drai­na­ge.

Best wis­hes from the All­gäu and many thanks for the sug­ges­ti­ons!

Agnieszka

PS: The bed is curr­ent­ly (June 2021) still dry­ing in the bath­room.

Thank you Agnieszka M.that I may publish your pho­tos and your comm­ents.  

Variant 5 vertical gardening DIY

Desi­gned and made by yours­elf!!! 🥳 by Gabrie­le Wim­mer:

It is a con­ti­nuous wall of soil — at the back, so that the roots have the oppor­tu­ni­ty to grow back­wards and down­wards. This natu­ral­ly enables much bet­ter growth. The­re are more than 9!!! 40l bags of soil in it and also an irri­ga­ti­on sys­tem. Now it just has to grow pro­per­ly and then I can har­ve­st soon!😍🥳 I was inspi­red by Her­bi­os, but I made it becau­se I nee­ded dif­fe­rent dimen­si­ons and also did­n’t want any cat hair on it — I have 3 Main Coons — hence the “box” with cat grass and the opti­on of gro­wing car­rots, zuc­chi­nis etc. And it’s on cas­tors, so it’s easy to move, e.g. when clea­ning etc. is due! It is made of Sibe­ri­an larch.

Thank you Gabrie­le Wim­merthat I may publish your pho­tos and your comm­ents. 

The extre­me­ly crea­ti­ve orga­nic gar­de­ner Gabrie­le has con­tin­ued to grow.

What does­n’t fit is made to fit!🥳
I can actual­ly find a per­fect place for herbs, but the­re is no shelf or sui­ta­ble box to meet my requi­re­ments for the­se dimen­si­ons!
It’s up to the woman! 💃💪
Now I have a shelf on wheels that hou­ses the cat grass and self-desi­gned boxes made of mesh and coco­nut mat­ting for per­fect herbs, even in win­ter!!!

Variant 6 vertical gardening DIY

Clau­dia Scheel wro­te after the Win­ter Vege­ta­ble Con­gressWhat a won­derful con­gress it was. Thank you so much! I have lear­ned so much and will be gro­wing vege­ta­bles and salads on my bal­c­o­ny for the first time this win­ter. Ever­y­thing that was explai­ned is alre­a­dy being imple­men­ted. We built a new one in spring and now they are defi­ni­te­ly not emp­ty in win­ter 😌

We live on the 2nd flo­or and have a small bal­c­o­ny with mor­ning sun. I’ve alre­a­dy sown rocket, kale, cress and radis­hes to fill the emp­ty spaces soon. Got this idea from Pin­te­rest. Got the boxes quite chea­p­ly from the DIY store and strips to make the legs. You can extend or rai­se it as you like. I stap­led foil insi­de and then ser­a­mis balls at the bot­tom, then thin fleece and herb soil on top. I love the look 😊 The bal­c­o­ny boxes con­tain bora­ge, mari­golds and bee flowers. Me and the child­ren are alre­a­dy exci­ted to see what will grow. As I did the trai­ning with Patri­cia Pur­ker and also with Ange­li­ka Fürst­ler it fits per­fect­ly into my self-cate­ring con­cept😊, and 2 months ago we were final­ly able to rent a gar­den 

As you can see in the pic­tu­re, it cost around €100 😉

Thank you Clau­dia Scheelthat I may publish your pho­tos and your comm­ents.  

Variant 7 vertical gardening DIY

Hei­ke Maresch and her hus­band have used larch and Dou­glas fir. “No buil­ding ins­truc­tions, as we adapt­ed it to our niche. We loo­ked at the various instructions/photos here on this blog, tin­ke­red with them and adapt­ed them during com­ple­ti­on.”
 
Hei­ke pos­ted in our Face­book group Orga­nic Bal­c­o­ny Con­gress Expe­ri­ence Exch­an­ge Group “Dear all, I actual­ly wan­ted to keep you up to date with my ver­ti­cal bed repli­ca. But there’s a lot going on this year and not­hing is going accor­ding to plan. Among other things, the indi­vi­du­al parts of the bed have been lying in the living room for a month becau­se I could­n’t do any­thing except lounge around on the sofa and brea­the deep­ly due to a rib inju­ry.
On the advice of Jür­gen Her­ler I had orde­red the wine press var­nish and pain­ted the bed with it when I was final­ly able to crawl again. It needs a week to dry. And is a chall­enge to work with.
But — it was final­ly finis­hed, sown and plan­ted and here is a pho­to that is alre­a­dy a month old. The rocket is now 30 cm high.
 
Con­clu­si­on: Deve­lo­ping the design, sourcing, cut­ting, gla­zing and assembling was a huge time com­mit­ment and an eter­nal mess in the apart­ment — and it defi­ni­te­ly did­n’t turn out as nice as the ori­gi­nals from Her­bi­os. Nevert­hel­ess, I would not have been able to afford the neces­sa­ry cus­tom-made pro­duct and am now glad that I tried it. It’s incre­di­ble how much bet­ter the plants thri­ve with this con­ti­nuous column of soil for their roots. In the past, rocket has always flowe­red as soon as it was 5 cm high — this is my first real har­ve­st!
In the pho­to below you can see an emp­ty com­part­ment — this was ori­gi­nal­ly inten­ded as a sump bed to pro­vi­de even more water sto­rage. Howe­ver, the brook­li­me, which thri­ved in the mini pond, did­n’t like the new loca­ti­on at all, so I dril­led a drai­na­ge hole and sowed various let­tuces (agret­te, cata­lo­gna, other expe­ri­ments).
 
Con­clu­si­on: The rai­sed bed con­cept with a con­ti­nuous soil column at the back is high­ly recom­men­ded. If you don’t want to skimp, order the ori­gi­nal — it’s nicer, bet­ter thought out, defi­ni­te­ly more dura­ble (stain­less steel ele­ments) and you’ll save a lot of time.”
 

As you can see in the pic­tu­re, it cost around €300 😉

And here’s some­thing about the pri­ce of Her­bi­os ver­ti­cal beds from Jür­gen Her­lerbecau­se that comes up from time to time:
“I can’t afford the ori­gi­nal at the moment. That’s why our apart­ment was trans­for­med into a car­pen­try work­shop at the weekend and a ver­ti­cal bed based on the “Her­bi­os” model was crea­ted. The mate­ri­al cos­ts (wood, screws, food-safe coa­ting, pla­s­ti­ci­zer-free rai­sed bed foil) amount to €250 — and it’s only 80cm high, so it’s smal­ler than the ori­gi­nal. It took us 2 man-days in our impro­vi­sed work­shop wit­hout spe­cia­list trai­ning just to design, pro­cu­re mate­ri­als, cut to size, drill and screw tog­e­ther — or 4, as the­re are two of us. When you con­sider that the Her­bi­os bed is pro­fes­sio­nal­ly manu­fac­tu­red and tes­ted and that the sales pri­ce not only covers the mate­ri­als and working hours, but also taxes and duties… the life of a self-employ­ed per­son… Then the sales pri­ce is no lon­ger so unrea­li­stic.
 
So you have to be able to afford it, but it’s not too expen­si­ve.”

Jür­gen Her­ler recom­mends as Inner pro­tec­ti­ve coa­ting Kel­ter Lacke ins­tead of lin­seed oilwhich is available as natu­ral clear lac­quer. Use it to coat the insi­de of the ver­ti­cal beds that are expo­sed to mois­tu­re. Lin­seed oil does not real­ly seal the wood and does not make it water-repel­lent. The wine press var­nish adhe­res very well, even to metal. And it dries quick­ly, so it does not stain. Bee­kee­pers also use Wine press var­nish.

Pro­blem: In my ver­ti­cal beds with auto­ma­tic irri­ga­ti­on, the bot­tom two tiers are wet­ter than the top tiers becau­se the water runs down­wards. Jür­gen Her­ler: “If the lower levels are too wetshor­ten the wate­ring inter­vals even fur­ther or/and move the lowest drip line upwards!”

Thank you Hei­ke Mareschthat I may publish your pho­tos and your comm­ents.  

The original and model of the replicas — with voucher

Here you can find the ver­si­on available for purcha­se — the model ver­ti­cal bed from Dr. Jür­gen Her­ler Her­bios­Gar­denwho has pre­sen­ted his visi­on of edi­ble cities and his ver­ti­cal beds at three orga­nic bal­c­o­ny con­gres­ses, which are con­stant­ly being fur­ther deve­lo­ped and adapt­ed even more to cus­to­mer requi­re­ments. New and very popu­lar are the Cli­ma­te ter­races. Inqui­ries about spe­cial sizes that are not in the store should be sent direct­ly to Jür­gen Her­ler at info@herbios.at. He grants the orga­nic bal­c­o­ny move­ment a dis­count with a vou­ch­er Bio-Bal­c­ony2023.

Here you will find My expe­ri­ence with this ver­ti­cal bed. They are gre­at! After the first ver­ti­cal bed in 2018, I instal­led three more ver­ti­cal beds in June 2021. The plant growth is enorm­ous.

This is how well space can be utilized on a narrow balcony. Here you can see a narrow vertical bed for vertical cultivation on balconies and terraces. With lush salads, strawberries and flowers.

The original and model for the replicas

For the orga­nic bal­c­o­ny move­ment Jür­gen Her­ler from Her­bios­Gar­den, Expert at the Online Orga­nic Bal­c­o­ny Con­gress 2020 and 2021one Dis­count vou­ch­er made available: Orga­nic Balcony2023. His com­pa­ny Her­bios­Gar­den has a visi­on of edi­ble living cities. We orga­nic bal­c­o­ny gar­den­ers sup­port this mis­si­on. He is hap­py to help us with (com­ple­te) solu­ti­ons (inclu­ding auto­ma­tic irri­ga­ti­on, ver­ti­cal bed soil, orga­nic young plants on request), even for small bal­co­nies, so that we can grow suc­cessful­ly. Inqui­ries about spe­cial sizes that are not in the store should be sent direct­ly to Jür­gen Her­ler at info@herbios.at.

Here you will find a voucher for vertical beds and climate terraces.
Dis­count code for ver­ti­cal beds and cli­ma­te ter­races: Orga­nic-Bal­c­ony2023

New from 10/22: DIY vertical bed component set

The Her­bi­os ver­ti­cal beds, which have alre­a­dy been pre­sen­ted seve­ral times at our orga­nic bal­c­o­ny con­fe­ren­ces, are cha­rac­te­ri­zed by a spe­ci­al­ly deve­lo­ped design (con­ti­nuous soil body, remo­va­ble plant trays) and enable orga­nic gar­dening even in the smal­lest of spaces. The manu­al pro­ces­sing of regio­nal, high-qua­li­ty mate­ri­als takes a lot of time and makes the beds rela­tively expen­si­ve (good qua­li­ty with regio­nal added value can­not be cheap!). Rea­dy-assem­bled beds with or wit­hout soil fil­ling also have to be ship­ped on pal­lets, which also makes ship­ping expen­si­ve. In recent years, the­r­e­fo­re, the­re have been repea­ted requests for a kit that allows you to save money by doing it yours­elf, while giving free rein to your love of craft­sman­ship and that can be ship­ped as a packa­ge. Her­bi­os has respon­ded to this trend and has recent­ly deve­lo­ped such a kit bed. For the orga­nic bal­c­o­ny move­ment the­re is a small vou­ch­er   Orga­nic balconyDIY2023 

This vertical bed enables effective cultivation in the smallest of spaces.
Dis­count code for the DIY kit: Orga­nic balconyDIY2023

Difference to plant steps

Look at the dif­fe­rence bet­ween Ver­ti­cal bed with con­ti­nuous soil wall and a plan­ting stair­ca­se. Jür­gen Buh­mann, who has enri­ched our con­gres­ses as a spea­k­er, offers a Ins­truc­tions for such a plant stair­ca­se from the pic­tu­re below. The Her­bios­Gar­denDr. Jür­gen Herler’s models have a con­ti­nuous thick back wall, which is fil­led with a good sub­stra­te with worm humus and water-retai­ning per­li­te. The plants have a lot of root space, which is why they grow so lush and healt­hy. I am also not a fri­end of the Dobar modelswhich also have as litt­le space as stan­dard bal­c­o­ny boxes and are not sta­ble. Lar­ge plan­ters are more suc­cessful for gro­wing toma­toes, zuc­chi­nis, pump­kins, fruit trees … on the upper level and around the edges.

Dis­count code: Bio-Bal­kon­2023

Are you inspired? Have you got a taste for vertical gardening?

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Gar­den with Bir­git Schattling’s orga­nic bal­c­o­ny move­ment and har­ve­st fresh varie­ty all year round. BMore than 31,000 par­ti­ci­pan­ts at the last Online Orga­nic Bal­c­o­ny Con­gress! 30 lec­tures on orga­nic gar­dening April 05 + 06.

Ship­ping takes place as part of the Pri­va­cy poli­cy. You can unsub­scri­be at any time at the bot­tom of the news­let­ter.

28 Responses

  1. Hel­lo Bir­git,

    Thank you for the gre­at tips on ver­ti­cal beds.

    I have one ques­ti­on about this: in both your pro­fes­sio­nal bed and the woo­den ver­si­on shown here, the pipe goes from top to bot­tom. Does it sit on the bot­tom of the board or on the ground? And how do the upper plants “water” them­sel­ves? Do they deve­lop roots “down the back” so that they can reach the water or do I still water the soil on each level? Why do I need the two pipes then?

    LG and have a nice Sun­day

    Sibyl

    1. Dear Sybil­le, the pipes are con­ti­nuous from top to bot­tom. They have small holes from which the water drips into the indi­vi­du­al cups. They are fil­led from abo­ve with a wate­ring can. The­re are also holes in the­se pipes in the top row. Wate­ring is actual­ly car­ri­ed out via the­se pipes with holes. But regard­less of this, you can also water the top and each cup indi­vi­du­al­ly with a wate­ring can. All the roots grow towards the back, becau­se that’s whe­re the water comes from and that’s whe­re most of the root space is. You can cle­ver­ly place the plants at an ang­le so that the roots are as far back as pos­si­ble, clo­se to the water pipes. Kind regards Bir­git

  2. An adden­dum to the descrip­ti­on of my tie­red bed:
    I have sin­ce remo­ved the com­post tubes again becau­se they fil­led up too quick­ly with the amount of vege­ta­ble was­te I pro­du­ce every day. I have sin­ce swit­ched to boka­s­hi com­pos­ting, which is easier to hand­le.
    In my expe­ri­ence, it is also worth pro­vi­ding drai­na­ge in the lower box becau­se the water seeps down­wards and coll­ects the­re. To pre­vent rot­ting, I instal­led two drai­na­ge taps and added a lay­er of coar­se clay gra­nu­les at the bot­tom.

    1. Dear Edwin, thank you for adding your prac­ti­cal expe­ri­ence from 3 years of ver­ti­cal beds. It’s gre­at that you are sha­ring your expe­ri­en­ces with us. Kind regards Bir­git

    2. Hel­lo Edwin, that sounds very inte­res­t­ing. I was also won­de­ring whe­ther you should­n’t drill more holes in the top of the water­fall pipe than the bot­tom, as the water seeps down a few hours after wate­ring any­way. Due to the extre­me­ly important and ins­truc­ti­ve com­men­ta­ry on irri­ga­ti­on by Devi on April 23, 2021 at the lec­tu­re by Mar­ti­na Wap­pel — PROVEN IRRIGATION AND PLANT VESSELS: On the sense/nonsense of drai­na­ge (in Eng­lish) https://deepgreenpermaculture.com/2019/09/06/should-you-put-gravel-or-rocks-at-the-bottom-of-plant-pots-for-drainage/ I was puz­zled: aha, why drai­na­ge? So it just rai­ses the water table. But that’s exact­ly the chall­enge in a con­ti­nuous ver­ti­cal bed. Won’t the upper beds all dry out fas­ter than the lower ones?
      And whe­re exact­ly did you con­nect the tap to drain off too much water? On the two water­fall pipes? Could you take a pho­to or make a sketch?
      In other ver­si­ons of this ver­ti­cal bed by Jür­gen Her­ler, I have also seen extra irri­ga­ti­on tubes that extend indi­vi­du­al­ly to the beds. Are they not neces­sa­ry here? Or is it more neces­sa­ry to water the indi­vi­du­al com­part­ments wit­hout the­se mini irri­ga­ti­on pipe­lines?
      Kind regards, Meli

  3. Hel­lo,
    I’m thin­king about whe­ther to build it mys­elf or buy the Cube 4 rai­sed bed (Aldi, Deh­ner,…) (100–150 EUR). Has anyo­ne tried the lat­ter? The dis­ad­van­ta­ge is pro­ba­b­ly the non-con­ti­nuous soil body
    LG
    Vic­tor

    1. Dear Vik­tor, the plants have litt­le root space in the indi­vi­du­al tiers. It is not a con­ti­nuous body of soil. With a self-built ver­ti­cal bed, you can build more than four tiers on top of each other. It depends on how ambi­tious you want to be with your cul­ti­va­ti­on and, abo­ve all, how high you want your plants to grow and which plants you choo­se. With a self-built ver­ti­cal bed, you can place your plants at an ang­le, with the roots gro­wing towards the con­ti­nuous soil body and the plant its­elf gro­wing out to the front. Kind regards Bir­git

        1. With plea­su­re. It still works in Ber­lin. I would be deligh­ted if you would like to share your “work” with the orga­nic bal­c­o­ny com­mu­ni­ty so that we can get even more ide­as for making good use of the limi­t­ed space on the bal­co­nies. We would be deligh­ted to recei­ve pic­tures (news@bio-balkon.de). Enjoy your work and hap­py gar­dening! Kind regards Bir­git

  4. Hel­lo dear Bir­git,
    I would also like to try a DIY ver­si­on. Does your ver­ti­cal bed have a liner/drainage at the bot­tom or is it sim­ply lined with larch wood? Is the wood res­t­ing direct­ly on the ground? Do you think the two wate­ring pipes are abso­lut­e­ly neces­sa­ry? I would actual­ly like to do wit­hout pla­s­tic. And my last ques­ti­on: what mate­ri­al is the slab at the back made of? I’d like to com­ple­te­ly clo­se the back of the bed with larch boards, do you think there’s any­thing wrong with that?
    Thank you in advan­ce! The con­gress was once again won­derful!
    PS: I was able to spi­ce up my soil for the first time this year with worm humus from my own worm bin (DIY) — I’m alre­a­dy curious to see how this will affect the growth of the plants 🙂

    1. Dear Agnieszka, I think it’s gre­at that you’­re buil­ding a ver­ti­cal bed yours­elf. Then add some soil spi­ced up with worm humus, that will be gre­at. My bed is a vari­ant whe­re the cups are gal­va­ni­zed. Only the two outer walls are made of larch wood. The back wall is a rela­tively thin board. Your idea of using larch boards at the back is very good. The wate­ring pipes are not abso­lut­e­ly neces­sa­ry. It is even bet­ter to install an auto­ma­tic wate­ring sys­tem. If you have a power and water con­nec­tion on the bal­c­o­ny, it is com­ple­te­ly unpro­ble­ma­tic, other­wi­se you can use a water tank from which the water is drawn. You’ll have less work with wate­ring. Per­so­nal­ly, I like wate­ring and it’s a good way to get in touch with the plants and see how they’­re doing. I also find wate­ring a medi­ta­ti­ve acti­vi­ty. But with auto­ma­tic wate­ring, you can easi­ly go away and don’t need a wate­ring ser­vice in mid­sum­mer. I want to have it writ­ten down. I have a pla­s­tic sheet in the bot­tom. Tonight at 7pm is the live with Jür­gen Her­ler on year-round ver­ti­cal cul­ti­va­ti­on. You can come along and ask ques­ti­ons. I would be deligh­ted if you would like to share your “work” with the orga­nic bal­c­o­ny com­mu­ni­ty later, so that we can get even more ide­as for making sen­si­ble use of the limi­t­ed space on the bal­co­nies. We would be deligh­ted to recei­ve pic­tures (news@bio-balkon.de). Enjoy your work and hap­py gar­dening! Kind regards Bir­git

      1. Hel­lo Bir­git,
        thank you, this coin­ci­des with many of my ques­ti­ons about Edwin. I will ask some ques­ti­ons at the lec­tu­re today:
        1. are the beds at the top dry fas­ter than the lower com­part­ments?
        2. do I have to water the com­part­ments addi­tio­nal­ly?
        3. which irri­ga­ti­on method is more uni­form: via indi­vi­du­al mini-pipli­nes or via the two irri­ga­ti­on down­pipes?
        4. would drai­na­ge at the bot­tom be useful to pre­vent rot­ting?
        Per­haps I can think of more, but the­se are ques­ti­ons that are of bur­ning inte­rest to me.
        Kind regards, Meli

        1. Dear Mela­nie, I think we have ans­we­red the ques­ti­ons. Other­wi­se, just wri­te to him again. Kind regards Bir­git

        2. For all tho­se who read my ques­ti­ons ear­lier:
          Jür­gen Her­ler said in his inter­view yes­ter­day:
          The ver­ti­cal bed stores up to 60–70 liters of water. During hea­vy rain, around 20 liters often fall, which just soaks the upper cups. He has never expe­ri­en­ced the enti­re soil body being soa­ked through to the bot­tom. Whe­ther only the upper or lower cups dry out depends on seve­ral fac­tors: Plant sel­ec­tion, wind, sun­light, soil mul­ching with e.g. grass clip­pings, orga­nic mate­ri­al, or other (bark mulch). The most important thing is that ever­y­thing is as green as pos­si­ble, then less eva­po­ra­ti­on occurs. The new ver­ti­cal beds do not have 2–4 wate­ring pipes at the back of the body, becau­se wate­ring via a drip line with approx. 6 nozz­les (15 cm apart) has pro­ved to be more even. If the upper cup is rather dry, you could blind­ly clo­se an irri­ga­ti­on tube at the bot­tom and add one at the top. In addi­ti­on, with the excep­ti­on of the soli­ta­ry beds, all wall models have a stain­less steel tray insi­de, which coll­ects the excess water and can be drai­ned off via pipes. Howe­ver, the aim is to water less so that the­re is not “too much” water in the first place. A drai­na­ge lay­er is not neces­sa­ry over­all, but you can use a litt­le more Agro­perl at the bot­tom. He also said some­thing about a drai­na­ge mat.
          The soil has been tes­ted and impro­ved over many years and is spe­ci­al­ly adapt­ed to this ver­ti­cal bed. see here: https://www.herbios.at/bio-vertikalbeeterde This is vir­tual­ly impos­si­ble to obtain even from the DIY store. The pro­blem is that clay soil com­pacts over time, and the cheap soils from the DIY store are con­ta­mi­na­ted with hea­vy metals. The orga­nic soils from the DIY store were also tes­ted and did not work so well. The mix­tu­re with Agro­perl, ear­thworm humus, lava sand, bark humus and hot-rot com­post is just spe­cial. https://www.herbios.at/bio-vertikalbeeterde
          I the­r­e­fo­re also tend to order the soil direct­ly from him. An irri­ga­ti­on pro­fes­sio­nal told him 3–4 years ago: 2/3 of the suc­cess of irri­ga­ti­on is the soil! And that was his expe­ri­ence too. It must be able to store water well and should remain loo­se.
          Over­all, the sys­tem is very well tes­ted, and very high qua­li­ty with larch wood, the Gar­denia irri­ga­ti­on sys­tem. And they are curr­ent­ly working on a solar modu­le for the bal­c­o­ny-free gar­den­ers.
          A self-assem­bly kit has also been reques­ted, but due to a lack of time, not­hing has been plan­ned yet. But that may still hap­pen.
          If you add ever­y­thing up… plan­ning, working time, soil mix­tu­re, per­fect­ly coor­di­na­ted irri­ga­ti­on sys­tem, high-qua­li­ty mate­ri­als: larch, stain­less steel… then the pri­ce is somehow jus­ti­fied.
          Any­thing you build yours­elf will be hard to match the ori­gi­nal. But I under­stand all tho­se who try any­way. Spruce is just more short-lived. You have to accept some dis­ad­van­ta­ges.
          Cover­ed bal­co­nies are even bet­ter for win­ter cul­ti­va­ti­on, becau­se then it does­n’t rain con­stant­ly on the ten­der win­ter vege­ta­bles (risk of per­ma­nent mois­tening of the soil and root rot, as well as mil­dew on the lea­ves). Here in Stutt­gart, con­ti­nuous rain has beco­me rather rare. It tends to be too dry over­all, even in win­ter.
          Until then, Meli

    2. Dear Agnieszka,

      I like your ver­si­on best so far, as it looks the most like the ori­gi­nal. Could you plea­se give some details about the dimen­si­ons (5 squa­re ele­ments on the side, over­all height, height and width of the slats).

      Were the flo­or­boards available at the DIY store?

      Many thanks and best regards,
      Flo Han­nich

      1. Hel­lo Flo,
        I based the dimen­si­ons on the boards I got on site. The boards for the inserts are 1 m long and 14 cm wide and are at a 45°C ang­le. The side boards of the con­ti­nuous earth body are 14.5 cm deep and approx. 130 cm high. I ori­gi­nal­ly had 7 inserts (“cups”) in it with small gaps bet­ween them, but have now pla­ced them as clo­se tog­e­ther as pos­si­ble and added ano­ther insert.
        LG, Agnieszka

  5. Hel­lo dear Bir­git,
    So far, I don’t have a green thumb eit­her. So I have to start very slow­ly. But your con­fe­ren­ces have real­ly inspi­red me. I’m lucky enough to have a mini-gar­den next to our first flo­or apart­ment, which I’ve main­ly plan­ted with herbs and other insect-fri­end­ly plants (hedge­hogs have also been coming to my gar­den regu­lar­ly for 2 years and I feed them). Direct­ly in front of my bal­c­o­ny is a rela­tively nar­row pas­sa­ge­way, whe­re unfort­u­na­te­ly not­hing wants to grow. The area is south-east facing and gets a lot of sun. It’s not cover­ed, but the­re is a house wall. I real­ly like the idea of put­ting two ver­ti­cal beds the­re, but is that even fea­si­ble? Are the­re any tips and/or links? Many thanks for your gre­at work!

    1. Dear Nad­ja, ver­ti­cal beds are ide­al if you want to make bet­ter use of the space. You have the advan­ta­ge of making bet­ter use of the base area. In some cases, the light comes in bet­ter if you gar­den in an ele­va­ted posi­ti­on. If they are pla­ced in front of a house wall, they still have the advan­ta­ge that the house wall radia­tes heat during the tran­si­tio­nal peri­od and in win­ter, which bene­fits plant growth. From my point of view, rea­ding your short text, the­re is not­hing to be said against it. Per­haps the soil the­re is too com­pac­ted for any­thing to grow. You can find instructions/inspirations for DIY con­s­truc­tion in the blog artic­le abo­ve, and I always recom­mend Jür­gen Her­ler Her­bios­Gar­den for purcha­se https://bio-balkon.de/empfehlungen/vertikalbeet/who also gives good advice. It’s gre­at that you have hedge­hogs coming by. That’s a very good sign. Kind regards Bir­git

      1. Hel­lo ever­yo­ne,

        I would also like to build a ver­ti­cal bed mys­elf and I have a few more ques­ti­ons:

        1. appro­xi­m­ate­ly how lar­ge the con­ti­nuous gap behind the indi­vi­du­al flo­ors should be
        2. how far should the tiers pro­tru­de or does a 45 degree ang­le make sen­se? I want to make sure that the plants get enough sun.
        3. is pure wood suf­fi­ci­ent for the back wall and shel­ves or should they be cover­ed or pro­tec­ted with a pond liner or some­thing else?

        Thank you very much for your help and best regards
        Ste­fan

        1. Dear Ste­fan, I can’t be more pre­cise. Wood is suf­fi­ci­ent, pond liner is not neces­sa­ry. Good luck! Kind regards Bir­git

  6. In the ques­ti­on-and-ans­wer ses­si­on with Jür­gen Her­ler at the Best of Con­gress May 2022, the ques­ti­on aro­se as to which timer he recom­mends for auto­ma­tic irri­ga­ti­on and which he works with. “Water pro­tec­tion class IP44. A timer for out­door use that does­n’t cau­se any pro­blems in the rain, has a hin­ged lid and is splash-pro­of. All timers are actual­ly good. I like the menu navi­ga­ti­on becau­se the inter­vals can be adjus­ted so quick­ly. Up to ten times. I can use it to time ever­y­thing I ever need for bal­c­o­ny gar­dening. I usual­ly only need 6 or 7 times. You should be able to see it in our web­shop when you zoom in. Or sim­ply search the Inter­net: Timer water pro­tec­tion class IP44. It cos­ts bet­ween 11 and 15 EUR0. I like it becau­se it’s for out­door use and is a stan­dard pro­duct that pro­ba­b­ly every DIY store and online retail­er has. We just take it too.”

  7. Hel­lo!

    I’m thin­king of buil­ding a ver­ti­cal bed on our com­ple­te­ly cover­ed (other bal­c­o­ny abo­ve) ter­race. The ter­race is per­fect­ly north-facing, so it’s shady almost all year round. We are in the Neu­wei­ler Basin in the Rhi­ne Val­ley and the­r­e­fo­re always have a war­mer cli­ma­te here. Can more than just let­tuce grow the­re or does it get too litt­le sun?

    Thank you alre­a­dy for the ans­wer 🙂

    Andre­as

    1. Dear Andre­as, more will grow. Vege­ta­bles with dark green lea­ves are well sui­ted to north-facing bal­co­nies: kale, palm kale, chard, spin­ach, Asi­an let­tuce (which is actual­ly cab­ba­ge), bar­ba­ra cab­ba­ge, water­cress, chi­ves, chop­ped gar­lic, pars­ley, cele­ry and many more vege­ta­bles and herbs are sui­ta­ble. The upper tier is for tall plants: palm kale, kale, chard, cele­ry. You have the advan­ta­ge of the Rhi­ne Val­ley, go ahead. The­re are always bal­c­o­ny dwel­lers who har­ve­st toma­toes on north-facing bal­co­nies. Not as many fruits as on south-facing bal­co­nies, but not­hing is out of the ques­ti­on. Kind regards Bir­git

      1. Thank you very much for the quick and detail­ed ans­wer!

        Do things like kohl­ra­bi or even cucum­bers also work? I have very nor­mal child­ren when it comes to vege­ta­bles and I think it would be nice to get them inte­res­ted in the topic with this twist 😉

        LG

        Andre­as

        1. Of cour­se. The cucum­bers want to climb, so eit­her put them at the bot­tom in good light and let them climb up the sides or put them on the top flo­or and then let them grow on the wall/ceiling. Snack and snack cucum­bers often like the nor­mal child­ren :). Kind regards Bir­git

  8. Hel­lo ever­yo­ne!

    I have a self-built ver­ti­cal bed on my cover­ed south-facing bal­c­o­ny. It has four levels and a lar­ger trough at the bot­tom; to pre­vent the wood from get­ting mol­dy, we lined ever­y­thing insi­de with bubble wrap.
    Somehow the ver­ti­cal bed and I just don’t get along. Last year, all the plants in it died (except the ones in the lower trough). I suspect it was too dry (per­haps the soil hea­ted up too much due to the dark dim­pled foil and the south-facing side?)
    This year I made ollas out of clay pots and plan­ted them bet­ween my crops. So far so good. Some of the crops still look unsight­ly, but for the most part it’s fine. Unfort­u­na­te­ly, I’m now strugg­ling with fun­gus gnats that I brought in from an orga­nic gar­de­ner 🙁 My car­pet basil also looks almost dead. I don’t know why. It’s south-facing, so it’s warm and dry and I haven’t wate­red it much. Other plants (e.g. the ore­ga­no I bought and the seed­lings of the Tur­ki­sh dra­gon balm) have traces of some kind of suck­in­g/­gut-eating ani­mals on the lea­ves.
    I’m about to give up and sell it 😢

    Hence my ques­ti­ons:
    1. has anyo­ne had simi­lar expe­ri­en­ces with the bubble wrap (heats the soil too much) and could con­firm or refu­te my assump­ti­on? If the infor­ma­ti­on is important: the foil is only a few cen­ti­me­ters abo­ve the sur­face of the soil.
    2. are your plants in the ver­ti­cal bed also much more sus­cep­ti­ble to fun­gus gnats, aphids and other suck­ing insects? Last year I also had spi­der mites in the bed.
    3. what is the most effec­ti­ve way to get the fun­gus gnats out of the VB? Water each level with nema­to­de water?
    4. is the­re anyo­ne who would like to share their expe­ri­ence with a ver­ti­cal bed on the south side?
    5. how do you water the beds that are on the south side? I’m torn bet­ween wate­ring less to get rid of the fun­gus gnats that are ever­y­whe­re in the bed and wate­ring more so that ever­y­thing does­n’t die…
    6. does anyo­ne have expe­ri­ence of whe­ther Ollas work in VB?

    Thank you in advan­ce! Best regards

    Alex

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