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Balcony in February — opportunities for harvesting happiness and experiencing nature

Do you also have that ting­ling sen­sa­ti­on, that impa­ti­ence, the desi­re to final­ly dig your hands in the soil again? Here you can read about what can be sown and plan­ted for the bal­c­o­ny in Febru­ary, what tasks need to be done and what can be har­ve­s­ted.
The perennial cabbage in the vertical bed is in its first winter here, the following year it was already gigantic. The radicchio, purple kohlrabi, red-stemmed chard and celery all look great.

Do you have it too — that ting­ling sen­sa­ti­on, that impa­ti­ence, the desi­re to final­ly dig your hands in the soil again and, abo­ve all, to sit out­side on the bal­c­o­ny? We won’t be sit­ting out­side yet, but we will be dre­a­ming in anti­ci­pa­ti­on of spring, rea­ding up, plan­ning the bal­c­o­ny year and we can also har­ve­st — insi­de and out­side. In the fol­lo­wing artic­le “Bal­c­o­ny in Febru­ary”, you can read about what can be sown and plan­ted for the bal­c­o­ny in Febru­ary, what tasks need to be done and what can be har­ve­s­ted. 

On the (deviating) sowing dates

Just as the infor­ma­ti­on on the seed packets and seed sup­pli­ers’ web­sites varies, so do the sowing calen­dars of seed sup­pli­ers and gar­den­ers’ web­sites. Regio­nal con­di­ti­ons are dif­fe­rent ever­y­whe­re and expe­ri­en­ces vary. Our bal­co­nies in the cities have even more dif­fe­rent con­di­ti­ons due to the heat of the city and radia­ting house walls. Here too, it is important to COURAGEOUSLY, PLAYFULLY and EXPERIMENTALLY gather your own expe­ri­ence and SEED. The seed its­elf ulti­m­ate­ly deci­des after sowing whe­ther the con­di­ti­ons of light, water and tem­pe­ra­tu­re appear favorable for ger­mi­na­ti­on or not until later.

Good infor­ma­ti­on on sowing dates and con­di­ti­ons at:

Organic seeds from Bingenheimer Saatgut are recommended.

In February, seeds can be sown for growing vegetables on the balcony:

It’s still too ear­ly for toma­toes, they grow too quick­ly due to the poor light con­di­ti­ons and grow hor­ny, i.e. not strong and com­pact. It real­ly is a good idea to sow the majo­ri­ty of toma­toes in mid/end March and wait until then. Howe­ver, sowing one or two plants towards the end of Febru­ary can be a good way to get some ear­ly toma­toes. Most plants grow bet­ter by sowing later becau­se the­re is more light available. In Febru­ary, light con­di­ti­ons are still unfa­vorable due to a com­bi­na­ti­on of short days and low sun. Seeds need ple­nty of light to grow healt­hi­ly, so it can be dif­fi­cult to grow healt­hy seed­lings indoors whe­re light con­di­ti­ons are still less favorable than out­doors. Place the seeds on the brigh­test win­dows­ill you have. If you don’t mana­ge to grow strong, robust plants from seeds sown in Febru­ary, try later in the year and the plants will catch up, or invest in a good qua­li­ty LED grow light. Ano­ther opti­on, of cour­se, is to sim­ply buy chi­lies and egg­plants as young plants later in the year.

Great selection of different types of peppers.

Extra tip for peppers and chili

Chi­li expert Alex­an­der Hicks recom­mends the Sowing pep­pers and chi­li pep­pers for mid-Febru­ary:

Opi­ni­ons dif­fer great­ly on this. Many chi­li fri­ends say that you have to cul­ti­va­te them as peren­ni­als, i.e. start sowing in Octo­ber or Novem­ber so that you can get fruit rela­tively quick­ly later on. I have a dif­fe­rent opi­ni­on. For me, the sea­son usual­ly starts in Janu­ary, alt­hough Janu­ary is only becau­se we do so much. If we did less, the sea­son would­n’t actual­ly start for me until Mid-Febru­ary start. But as we sim­ply don’t have the time other­wi­se, we start the sea­son in Janu­ary so that we can fit ever­y­thing in and not fall behind sche­du­le.

From your expe­ri­ence, would you recom­mend mid-Febru­ary for us bal­c­o­ny gar­den­ers who do this as a hob­by?

Exact­ly. So for almost ever­y­thing, I would recom­mend mid-Febru­ary. With pep­pers, wild and semi-wild varie­ties are some­ti­mes popu­lar, at least with die-hard chi­li fans, so you can also start in Janu­ary. But for the stan­dard varie­ties, pep­pers, mid-Febru­ary is per­fect­ly ade­qua­te. You can even go into March in some cases. I can say from my own expe­ri­ence that if you start in mid-Febru­ary with the other types of chil­li, with the cul­ti­va­ted varie­ties, you can still get ever­y­thing to ripen wit­hout any pro­blems if the wea­ther and cli­ma­te play along accor­din­gly. If the wea­ther does­n’t coope­ra­te, then even start­ing in Octo­ber won’t help. I see this every year with a lot of peo­p­le who start very ear­ly and at the end of the day are no fur­ther along than tho­se who star­ted much later.

Egg­plants, chi­lies and pep­pers must grow for around 20 weeks befo­re they bear fruit. Sowing them in mid-Febru­ary impro­ves the chan­ces that they will bear fruit in the hot­test months of the year. Howe­ver, if sown later (depen­ding on the varie­ty — look out for fruit-bea­ring ones), a good har­ve­st is often pos­si­ble by the end of March. Bell pep­per and chi­li plants can be kept as peren­ni­als, they can over­win­ter in a bright and frost-free place. They should then be che­cked regu­lar­ly for pest infe­sta­ti­on, which can wea­k­en the plant too much.

Chi­li, egg­plant and toma­to seeds ger­mi­na­te more relia­bly in warm con­di­ti­ons (25 — 30 °C is best, 16 °C is the mini­mum). A warm place abo­ve a hea­ter or the back of the fri­dge is favorable, or a con­tai­ner with a ple­xi­glass lid and a heat source under­neath. After ger­mi­na­ti­on, they need to be pla­ced in the brigh­test light and can cope with slight­ly lower tem­pe­ra­tures.

Potatoes

Potatoes germinate in egg packs in a dark cupboard.

Pota­toes can alre­a­dy be pre-ger­mi­na­ted for sowing. A bright place at around 10 degrees is ide­al. In war­mer regi­ons, they can be plan­ted out­doors towards the end of Febru­ary if the ten­der shoots are pro­tec­ted from frost with a bell or fleece, in col­der regi­ons from the begin­ning of April.

Great wild plants with beautiful, insect-friendly flowers can be sown on the balcony in February (until June):

I have mark­ed my favo­ri­te pro­ven wild plants for con­tai­ners in bold. Loca­ti­on, flowe­ring peri­od, flowe­ring color, size/height/spacing, perennial/biennial or annu­al, infor­ma­ti­on on sowing, ger­mi­na­ti­on peri­od, use/edibility and which ani­mals use them (1TP5 ani­mal plants) can be found in the link.

Yel­low flowers:

Blue and pur­ple flowers:

Pink and red flowers:

White flowers:

Seed-resistant insect-friendly herbs for pre-cultivation from February/March

Sifting the seed

Look through the old seed stocks, buy or order new seeds (Recom­men­da­ti­ons for orga­nic seed) and make gar­den plans for the coming bal­c­o­ny gar­dening sea­son! When plan­ning, let your per­so­nal pre­fe­ren­ces gui­de you — what do you like to eat, what do you like to smell, what is good for insects? Varie­ty is important — lots of dif­fe­rent plants, lots of unfil­led flowers with a rich sup­p­ly of pol­len and nec­tar from March until the frost. As a bal­c­o­ny gar­de­ner, don’t let yours­elf be con­fu­sed or put off by the abun­dant oppor­tu­ni­ties for crop rota­ti­on and mixed cul­ti­va­ti­on, which I often expe­ri­ence becau­se nobo­dy wants to do any­thing wrong. Varie­ty is important!

Orga­nic seeds and orga­nic plants are gua­ran­teed to be free of che­mi­cals and the­r­e­fo­re non-toxic for us, insects and other ani­mals. The plants grow healt­hi­er, more natu­ral­ly and more sus­tain­ab­ly. Befo­re you order online, per­haps you can regio­nal buy good qua­li­ty. You can find online sup­pli­ers here.

February is the time for shrubs on the balcony

Woo­dy plants of all kinds can still be pru­n­ed on frost-free days until the end of Febru­ary.
New shrubs can be plan­ted during the dor­mant peri­od until they sprout (ear­ly Febru­ary to mid-May), con­tai­ner plants all year round. Aro­nia ber­ry, rock pear, cor­ne­li­an cher­ry and cher­ry are par­ti­cu­lar­ly sui­ta­ble for use in con­tai­ners. Colum­nar apple trees Pro­ven. The best way to buy fruit trees is bare root from a pro­fes­sio­nal fruit nur­sery. They can advi­se you on the varie­ty that is sui­ta­ble for your cli­ma­te and cul­ti­va­ti­on in lar­ge con­tai­ners. Varie­ty and rootstock/rootstock (slow-gro­wing) make a big dif­fe­rence to suc­cess. Our experts Con­rad Amber and Dr. Son­ja Schwin­ges­bau­er pre­sen­ted our­sel­ves for the 6th Online Orga­nic Bal­c­o­ny Con­gress March 2021 Can you plant ani­mals? lists of which woo­dy plants are sui­ta­ble for the extre­me bal­c­o­ny loca­ti­on. In Sep­tem­ber 2024, the Orga­nic Bal­c­o­ny Con­gress was dedi­ca­ted to Shrubs in tubs. A List with 105 woo­dy plantswhich have pro­ven them­sel­ves in pot cul­ti­va­ti­on.

Here is a good source for bare-roo­ted shrubs in Deme­ter qua­li­tythe­re can never be enough ber­ries (with dis­count code Orga­nic balcony10 save 10 % on every purcha­se)

The trees and shrubs can be plan­ted from the midd­le of the month with Worm humus from the worm bin which has a fer­ti­li­zing effect and pro­mo­tes soil life.

This corner with aronia berries is very popular with sparrows as a hiding place. Kohlrabi, chard, staghorn plantain, winter divia, Red Giant Asian lettuce and winter postelein grow in the vertical bed.
This cor­ner with aro­nia ber­ries is very popu­lar with spar­rows as a hiding place. Kohl­ra­bi, chard, stag­horn plan­tain, win­ter divia, Red Giant Asi­an let­tuce and win­ter pos­te­lein grow in the ver­ti­cal bed, all of which have over­win­te­red.

Insect nesting aids

Insect nes­t­ing aids should be built and instal­led now.

» Buil­ding ins­truc­tions for effec­ti­ve nes­t­ing aids for wild bees — NABU
» Sources of error when buil­ding insect nes­t­ing aids

Lovin­g­ly hand­craf­ted, well thought-out, pret­ty nes­t­ing aids are available here to acqui­re.

These insect nesting aids are practical, useful and attractive.

Have fun with the plan­ning. Expe­ri­ence has shown that the tried and tes­ted Online pro­vi­ders ear­ly orde­ring is an advan­ta­ge, other­wi­se the­re is a risk of long wai­ting times befo­re deli­very. If you feel the ting­ling in your hands and want to watch plants grow — think of gro­wing Micro­greens and sprouts on the kit­chen table and win­dows­ill. The appearance is cap­ti­vat­ingly beau­tiful and fresh green, and the ingre­di­ents are par­ti­cu­lar­ly good for us in the cold sea­son. I have been orde­ring the best orga­nic sprou­ting seeds and access­ories for years here (First order with 10% dis­count with code Orga­nic balcony10).

Keep an eye on the cultivation of sprouts and microgreens.
Pea greens on the left, red radis­hes in the grow-grow groo­ve on the right.

Order organic dahlias

Dah­lia tubers in orga­nic qua­li­ty can be orde­red from the smart Robert Heems­kerk. The­re is a lar­ge sel­ec­tion useful for bees unfil­led flowers with open heart. If you order for at least € 25, you will recei­ve 5 € dis­count and as Bonus one tuber on top. The Dis­count code biobalkon25 is valid until 31.12.25. Ship­ping for dah­lia tubers starts from mid-March to the end of May at the right time for plan­ting. Do not plant until after the last night frost or plant in a con­tai­ner indoors from March for ear­ly flowers from June. The long flowe­ring peri­od until the frost is gre­at, the lumi­no­si­ty is spe­cial, as the pho­tos show. I even grow the low varie­ties on the win­dows­ill in a 60 cm bal­c­o­ny box with a water reser­voir.

Keep your feet still, don’t cut anything down

IMG_1046_seeds_leek_china_leek_sunrise_winter_protection
Deco­ra­ti­ve seed heads of Chi­ne­se leek

As is the case throug­hout the fall and win­ter, lea­ve dead stems stan­ding becau­se they are important habi­tats for insects. So keep your feet still and look for­ward to the sea­son! Peo­p­le used to clean all their pots at this time of year. But that’s not neces­sa­ry, it was pro­ba­b­ly main­ly to keep gar­den­ers busy in win­ter.

Harvest in February

As the days get war­mer and lon­ger, you will noti­ce that the plants start to make a growth spurt. They can be har­ve­s­ted towards the end of the month: In addi­ti­on to leafy vege­ta­bles such as Swiss chard, kale, spoon cab­ba­ge, win­ter cress, chop­ped gar­lic, chop­ped cele­ry and Asi­an salads, the frost-har­dy culina­ry herbs rose­ma­ry and sage can also be har­ve­s­ted. If you have plan­ted Jeru­sa­lem articho­kes, you can dig them up now and lea­ve a tuber in the pot for the next sea­son. From our nati­ve wild plants sor­rel, mug­wort, Dan­de­l­ion, gout­weed and nett­les young shoot tips can be har­ve­s­ted.

Sources of supply

Online orga­nic plants

Our Green card with non-toxic orga­nic (pro­du­cing) nur­se­ries and orga­nic bal­co­nies

600 varie­ties of seed-resistant orga­nic seed

Dis­counts and recom­men­da­ti­ons for the orga­nic bal­c­o­ny move­ment

Have fun! What have you planned for your balcony in February?

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Gar­den with Bir­git Schattling’s orga­nic bal­c­o­ny move­ment and har­ve­st fresh varie­ty all year round. BMore than 31,000 par­ti­ci­pan­ts at the last Online Orga­nic Bal­c­o­ny Con­gress! 30 lec­tures on orga­nic gar­dening April 05 + 06.

Ship­ping takes place as part of the Pri­va­cy poli­cy. You can unsub­scri­be at any time at the bot­tom of the news­let­ter.

15 Responses

  1. Dear Bir­git,
    From the first orga­nic bal­c­o­ny con­fe­rence I atten­ded with you, I remem­ber you say­ing that every bal­c­o­ny should have a tree. At the time I thought “well, my bal­c­o­ny is so long and nar­row and so high up”. But you mana­ged to top all that. Last year we got a per­go­la and plan­ted a young vine that grew well and had gre­at gra­pes. This spring it can move into a lar­ger tub. Last week we added a dwarf apri­cot and the nec­ta­ri­ne is not (yet) available — two varie­ties that have a hard time in our gar­den becau­se of the soil. So we are crea­ting a natu­ral suns­ha­de. Our pro­ject for Febru­ary is to get the “forest gar­den” on the bal­c­o­ny on the right track.

    1. Dear Hei­ke, I look for­ward to your regu­lar reports in our group. Trees on bal­co­nies work and are wort­hwhile. I think it would be good if you wro­te about your expe­ri­en­ces and plans in our group. Kind regards Bir­git

  2. Thank you for all the ide­as on how to bridge the gap until spring actual­ly arri­ves. Even though my “green fin­gers” are alre­a­dy ting­ling, I pre­fer to wait a litt­le lon­ger. I like the quiet time when natu­re takes a deep breath befo­re it real­ly gets going 😉

    1. Dear Vale­rie, I’d love to. You can feel your fin­gers and body ting­ling, spring is alre­a­dy in the start­ing blocks. Natu­re is taking its cour­se. Best wis­hes from rai­ny Ber­lin Bir­git

  3. Dear all, I will place the “han­ger for the stair­ca­se” in my car on one of the rear side win­dows. I’ve done that befo­re (in a dif­fe­rent way) and I know that it’s an eye-cat­cher!!! Apart from that, I’m real­ly loo­king for­ward to when things real­ly get going again. I have 1 cro­cus bloo­ming on my bal­c­o­ny so far + alre­a­dy: the lung­wort !!!
    Kind regards from Petra

    1. Dear Petra, that’s a gre­at idea. Super. Thank you for that. My lung­wort is nowhe­re near rea­dy yet, only ten­der tips are pee­king out. Kind regards Bir­git

    1. Dear Sun, if the time suits me, all my shrubs and pots get a spring start fer­ti­liza­ti­on at the end of Febru­ary, in March. When I have time, if it’s not too cold. Kind regards Bir­git

  4. To my gre­at delight, the­re are a few small Arte­mi­sia annua plants in my bal­c­o­ny boxes
    came up. I was in India for 6 months and the Arte­mi­sia (my favo­ri­te plant) has been a gre­at help to me.
    Wel­co­me home.
    Can’t wait for the Bio Bal­kon Con­gress to start!

    Many thanks Bir­git and best regards from Munich
    Abha­ya

    1. Dear Abha­ya, that’s gre­at. I haven’t seen any yet. I’m curr­ent­ly domi­na­ted by wall cin­na­mon, I can see young plants of it ever­y­whe­re. I hope that Arte­mi­sia annua will also come up, you seem to be par­ti­cu­lar­ly ear­ly. But no apart­ment, if it wel­co­mes you after such a beau­tiful time in India, that’s fine. Kind regards Bir­git

  5. I’m curious to see if my bal­c­o­ny boxes still don’t need a chan­ge of soil this sea­son. Unfort­u­na­te­ly, I don’t have any worm humus, my boka­s­hi is always mol­dy and I only coll­ec­ted my com­post (laun­dry gar­ba­ge can in the gar­den) this year, so it’s not ripe yet. I put sheep’s wool under the soil 2 years ago when I set up the boxes. I won­der if that will be enough “food” for my peren­ni­als this year…?

    1. Dear Danie­la! The plants will show you. If they deve­lop poor­ly, remain stun­ted, get yel­low lea­ves, you should fer­ti­li­ze them. Sim­ply obser­ve the plants. Sheep’s wool decom­po­ses over 6–12 months, depen­ding on the tem­pe­ra­tu­re, exis­ting soil life and type of plant. You will noti­ce it. Kind regards Bir­git

  6. Any­way, I’m real­ly exci­ted about the “Tiny wild north-facing bal­c­o­ny” the­me, becau­se that’s exact­ly my situa­ti­on. 🙂

    1. Dear Danie­la! This is an out­stan­ding con­tri­bu­ti­on. I was ama­zed. Patri­cia also gave a gre­at pre­sen­ta­ti­on. Kind regards Bir­git

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